berlin, my darling

I arrived in Berlin two Tuesdays ago after taking the train from Nice to Milan and flying on EasyJet to Berlin. I arrived pretty late at the airport, around midnight, and took the train into town with the gracious assistance of Carlos, a super nice half Spanish, half German guy who led me to the right stop. We chatted in English and Spanish and he shared his salami sandwich and orange with me. He was the perfect introduction to Berlin- young, open, and totally kind, in favor of sharing and conversating. These were the kind of people I encountered over and over again in Berlin and now the prime reason I find it totally irresistible.

The city itself is absolutely gigantic, but the metro and bus systems are extensive and efficient. Marcus, my host from Hamburg, had lived in Berlin for four years (?) and is doing his masters in engineering at the technical university. He had just finished a six-month stint roadtripping around the us, and happened to couchsurf with my good friend Taylor while he was in Austin. Marcus was probably the best host I could have had in Berlin. We checked out museums, he lent me his bike and we went on an awesome ride through the city, I met his amazing group of friends and they all welcomed me as one of them the many occasions I saw them. We went to Karnaval der Kulturen, which was a huge parade/cultural festival in Kreuzberg (the young/hip neighborhood, more or less) on Saturday and Sunday, which was wild and awesome (especially after a caipirinha). we did a lot of dancing and revelling. We explored the funkier bars of kreuzberg one night and stayed out til it was completely light outside a few times- that was a trip for me. marcus had a huge apartment on the top floor of his building in moabit with stairs that led up to the roof. we spent a few nights talking and drinking beers with friends on this roof...it was an unforgettable part of my experience. which brings me to the beer. We drank a lot of it. And it was cheap, for once! i saved some of the labels of my favorite ones. As marcus' good friend Al explained to me, if you don't have a beer in your hand at all times while in Berlin, something is wrong. I adapted readily. i definitely drank more beer in berlin than i have on my entire trip thus far, and loved every minute of it.

I got to spend one nice day with my couchsurfing friend Andre, who lives in Berlin, walking through Prenzlauer Berg, an ultra hip and lovely neighborhood with great restaurants and cafes that seemed to be primarily inhabited by hip 30something parents with stylishly outfitted children. I met andre in San Francisco a few months back when he was auditioning at the conservatory of music for classical guitar. He got in with a scholarship, and will move to sf in January, so the next time i see him will proabably be there.

Berlin was intoxicating for me. Maybe I just got lucky with my host and his delightful friends, I mean I know I did, but the place itself got into me nonetheless. I understood why everyone I told I was going to Berlin responded with envy and longing enthusiasm. The vibe is young and hip, but open-minded and truly genuine, with a serious committment to partying. it was like San Francisco but flat and affordable, and lacking the snotty hipster masses, and with all it's best aspects in excess. I could have stayed for months and been totally happy. I daresay Berlin was in the top 2 of trip highlights. Maybe if I overcome my winter intolerance one day, you will find me living happily in Berlin. For now it remains my darling city.